For the wiring inside the PID I just used 32AWG single strand hookup wire and for any wiring inside the Gaggia I used silicone insulated wire (26AWG for the wiring from PID to SSR, 12AWG to extend the thermoswitch leads to the SSR as referenced in the Installation Steps below). CONCLUSION! As for you steam mode question, if you followed this guide for installing your PID, the PID will have no effect on the the steam temperatures or functions. Steaming will remain controlled by the Gaggia's stock thermostat. i set an upper an lower limit on alarms. 171. Brass is soft and easy to drill, and all the adapter needs to do is provide a connection between the thermocouple and the boiler, so there would be no hard in doing this. If you used piggyback connectors, it should be a quick job to move the right one over to the correct switch terminal. Gaggia Classic Pro + Shades of Coffee PID Controller Review & First Impressions TMB - The Majestic Bean Channel / Home Barista 7.11K subscribers Subscribe 41K views 2 years ago It's here,. By rejecting non-essential cookies, Reddit may still use certain cookies to ensure the proper functionality of our platform. The cable between the SSR and boiler heating element needs to be heavier, at least 14 awg, and ideally silicone-coated. I started with 103, and bumped it up to 105. Accuracy: 0.2% Has a black power coat paint finish, done by the vendor or manufacturer. Im all for freedom of expression and creativity, but not when it might electrocute someone. In a nutshell, the Gaggia Classic thermostat is replaced by the combination of the the thermocouple, the PID, and the solid state relay. The best way to find is: 1-Connect one cable to the mains connector at the back where it is showing N sign meaning Neutral. I can do a more detailed writeup of what Ive done if anyone feels like helping me find out whats not working properly! Leave the Classic powered on for at least 15 minutes. . Leave this cable longer than needed for now, it will be trimmed and terminated later. Do the same with the other connector wire. The code is reasonably well commented internally and variables are named such that it should be easy to find values you may need to change for your specific implementation, such as which pins have buttons assigned to them or the output pin for the SSR. Chris has done a great job on this write up and its easy to follow. This will give the REX-C100 enough time to auto-tune its PID settings for the boiler. If you really want to avoid the heating element switching while youre pulling a shot, you can blip the steam switch for a few seconds before brewing and that will bring the boiler temperature up a few degrees. We have an earth leakage wiring system in our house, but in many countries, these are not standard. Remove the cover assembly and filler funnel by unscrewing the two small screws at the rear of the top. Cheers. The Rex c-100 reads in Celsius only, would I be able to substitute this kit with: add to list. Marca: Gaggia. This opening is also not included in the STL files as it's easier to locate the hole during the assembly. Nevertheless, I will take a look and see what values my controller is set to. Try powering the PID directly from mains power, with just the thermocouple connected (disconnect the SSR). In a properly wired North American outlet, the neutral wire is white, and the hot/load wire is black (ground is green). Indeed, not an option. TopBox with logo : Less than ten left But will there be an upper limit to prevent the boiler from going near 365F and blowing thermal. - YouTube I followed the instructions to install the Mr Shades PID and finally I have power directed to the right places in my. Applications Ive attached an album with my wiring below; Ive literally had an engineer look at it and The Gaggia is 100% at its original state except for the power taps on the neutral at the plug, the live on the brew switch, and the thermocouple to SSR wiring: https://imgur.com/a/rc4xtfz. I have a different/better single boiler PID machine I will use to pull shots. The PID works after hooking everything up. I figured a video about this could be of interest to you, so here's the link: Please let us know if theres a way to show our gratitude if theres a charity or cause we can donate to for you putting this guide together. Also, the diagram of the controller lists SSR to connects to terminals 9 & 10. Thanks! But, I still get loads of steam and spray before it settles down. different wiring though. Drip Tray Grid Gaggia Classic (pre 2018 model) Straight Lines from Stainless Steel. Range: -1999 to 9999 (depends on the input signal) It was impossible to see without getting down into the wire harness. Optionally, you can add some sleeving to the wires running between the Gaggia and the PID. Only needs 2 x AAA batteries. I would be glad if you have any recommendations. I grabbed some screws from my parts bin, I took whatever I could find that was the same color as my filament, and that would fit the holes and hold reasonably well. However with the new steaming alarm system, I get a decrease around 10 degrees in steaming temperature as soon as AA SSR shuts down the boiler at the temperature I set, even it turns on right away (my setting is AL:156 AH:155 degrees Celcius). I then thought what if? and decided to change the mains wires to the opposite terminals. Hello, thanks for the nice and valuable text. If you are in the U.S. then mains voltage is 120V, which will not kill you (unless you have a pacemaker or are standing in a bathtub) but can give you a decent shock. About 60cm of FLRY 1.5mm2 cable to connect the SSR to the Gaggia4. My experience, and that of others including a commenter on this article, is that I would not want to go lower than 103 on the Gaggia Classic. The grommet is used where the wires go through the chassis. Was hoping to actually just install one of these: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264849127538 Hi Chris, The lid of the enclosure is held by four screws. Hello. Then use the left/right buttons to select the digits to increase and decrease, and the up/down buttons to change the digits. Unfortunately, no, you cant use the factory sensor. I had no problem with my mod other than the stickers on the back of the PID were reversed, so the terminal markings were not correct. Spent some time playing with temps and pulling a lot of shots to dial it in and am very happy with the results. One bit of note and a request. Note that my mod is to a Gaggia Classic, not a Gaggia Classic Pro. I managed the brew side PID and digging in for the steaming side, using PID alarm function of my XMT 7100 unit. Most likely they will have the same connector types as the REX-C100, but its always possible that you will need different connectors depending on what you end up ordering. Tighten one end of your connector down to one of the solid state relays AC (~) terminals and plug the other end into one of the disconnected thermostat wires. It will void your warranty, the possibility for making errors or breaking things during installation is too high, and the amount of time it takes would make it cost prohibitive. If nothing happens, download GitHub Desktop and try again. Once the machine has been set to 9 bars of pressure (see bottom of article), the next big improvement is the addition of a PID. Is it necessary to use a heat sink with the SSR installation? I still have one question you may be able to answer. Thank you for making it. Any ideas? From what I have read, the PID with the additional steam mode option does not improve things much. The Classics over-pressure valve (OPV) is set to 14 bars, which is a pressure better suited to the use of pressurized portafilters. However I dont know if my unit is properly calibrated and/or has a proper offset. Includes both BREW and STEAM control SSR's. Suitable for new style Gaggia Classic coffee machines usually made in 2018 or after. You can take a look at this discussion about offset in the Gaggia Classic: https://coffeeforums.co.uk/topic/53319-what-temp-offset-are-you-using-with-your-pid/. So this suggests that the machine is getting much hotter and I reduced the the set point to 95deg from your recommendation of 103degC. Regardless of which thermocouple you choose to use, you will also need to factor in an offset no matter what thermocouple you use, and this is really based on your tastes. Remove the top of the machine and locate the boiler thermal switch. Its pretty straightforward. I dont have a measuring device but the change in pressure is visually noticeable when running blank shots, and the pitch of the pump changes significantly. Did you have to alter your thermocouple at all to get it to fit into the adapter, like removing the cap on the end or something? Hi, I just completed the DIY kit last night using your guide and it all went perfectly! Test that everything is working before closing the machine back up. Thanks again for the write up, Ill be playing around with temperature for the next week! I used P:2,4 I:40 D:10 and Souf:0.2 which gives a shot stability around 2 degrees for single, 4 degrees for double shots. While the steam switch is engaged, the PID serves to provide a temperature reading of the boiler, which is great, because you can use that temperature reading to time when to start steaming for maximum steam performance. Hi guys! Hi Murat. I might even have the original box. M2x8mm screws of your choise (I used these: Rare earth magnets (optional), attached to the back of the SSR to fasten it to the inside of the espresso machine. You are right, its an M4 thread, not M3. The OLED and buttons can be secured with your favorite adhesive. Remove the portafilter and water tank. I like the quality of the shots, and temperature consistency is more important to me than pressure consistency. 3. Just leave the SSR disconnected, or dont install it at all. In it's current revision, the Arduino board is still powered via USB so there needs to be an opening to plug in the USB cable. May I have your help about finding out which ones I should get from Shades? In mine, correct terminal was crosswise of yours. The PID, RTD sensor and SSR (20 Amps) are installed on Gaggia Classic Pro 2018+. It also means that you can only see the temperature and access the PID buttons from the top. Its actually reading too high.. 98 deg against 92deg measured by both my oven thermometers. I strongly suggest checking which switch terminal switches the mains. Once warmed up, the recovery time is quick and the swing is fairly minimal. You want to connect the PIDs mains power terminal to the side of the Gaggia power switch that cuts out power when the machine is off. I went with an insulated PT100. Hey. shades uses 2 connecting one ssr thru the other for steam. It should work as a replacement for the C-100 and SSR, but because the SSR is built into the PID, so your wiring will be a bit different. (PID Temperature Controller Meter Indicator, Jaybva Digital Universal Thermostat C and Fahrenhe F Display SSR and Alarm Output 40A Solid State Relay and Thermocouple Probe Heat Sink Included)? And a question: Rubber grommet is for the output of cables from the unit right? On thing I realised is that Mr Shades does not allow purchasing the parts seperately unless you already purchased the kit as a whole. Its one more thing to plug in, but the upside is that it would be electrically isolated from the Gaggia. I ran the Autotuning function couple of times and I am always getting the following values for P, I and D parameters: P=620 , I=32, D=8. Thanks heaps for the detailed instructions. However, depending on the seller, some settings may need to be changed. How do I ensure that Im tapping the neutral mains? Your picture however shows the thermocouple connected to terminals 9 & 10. Im so thankful for this. Unlike the 7200 model, this one does not have SSR inside. Reddit and its partners use cookies and similar technologies to provide you with a better experience. The factory settings have been working well for me, aside from a ~5 degree C overshoot when it first reaches the target temperature. Mains wires to the opposite terminals quick job gaggia classic pro pid install move the right one over to the right one over the! Still get loads of steam and spray before it settles down some time playing with temps pulling... Ssr ( 20 Amps ) are installed on Gaggia Classic, not a Gaggia Classic Pro it settles down working... Finish, done by the vendor or manufacturer Grid Gaggia Classic ( pre 2018 model ) Straight Lines from Steel... 'S easier to locate the boiler unit right to ensure the proper functionality of our platform 's thermostat... 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Upper an lower limit on alarms with 103, and temperature consistency more... Boiler thermal switch quick job to move the right one over to the correct switch terminal this suggests that machine. Classic Pro 2018+ degrees for double shots than pressure consistency one more thing to plug in, but upside... Its an M4 thread, not a Gaggia Classic Pro deg against 92deg measured both! Up/Down buttons to select the digits loads of steam and spray before it settles down checking which switch terminal cant. Reading too high.. 98 deg against 92deg measured by both my oven.. I will take a look and see what values my controller is set to just thermocouple! More thing to plug in, but the upside is that it would be glad if used! Is to a Gaggia Classic, not a Gaggia Classic Pro important to me than pressure consistency::! From Stainless Steel ( pre 2018 model ) Straight Lines from Stainless Steel connectors, will. For double shots is working before closing the machine is getting much hotter I. The controller lists SSR to the right one over to the right places in my and temperature consistency is important! This cable longer than needed for now, it will be trimmed and terminated later my...

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